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Austria

For centuries the heart of an empire which played a pivotal role in the political and cultural destiny of Europe, Austria underwent several decades of change and uncertainty in the twentieth century. The interwar state, shorn of its empire and racked by economic problems and political strife, fell prey to the promise of a greater Germany. But postwar stability has seen the growth of a genuine patriotism, while the end of the Cold War has put the country, and its capital, Vienna, back at the heart of Europe. The ethos of Austrian society is solidly bourgeois, although the Socialist party has been the strongest influence in government over past decades; and despite endless scandals, and the deep divisions created by the Waldheim controversy, an almost Scandinavian emphasis on social policy continues to be the guiding principle of national life.Austria is primarily known for two contrasting attractions - the fading Imperial glories of Vienna, and the variety of its Alpine hinterland. Vienna is the gateway to much of central Europe and a good place to soak up the culture of Mitteleuropa before heading towards the M


The most dramatic of Austria's Alpine scenery is west of here, in and around the Tirol, whose capital, Innsbruck, provides the best base for exploration. agyar and Slav lands over which the city once held sway. In the larger towns and cities pensions situated in large apartment blocks offer similar prices. Street food centres around the ubiquitous Wurstelstand, which sells hot dogs, Bratwurst (grilled sausage), Kasekrainer (spicy sausage with cheese), Bosna (spicy, thin Balkan sausage) or Currywurst, usually chopped up and served with a Semmel or bread roll, along with a dollop of Senf (mustard) and Dose (can) of beer. Good-value bed and breakfast accommodation is usually available in the many small family-run hotels known as Gasthofe and Gasthauser, with prices starting at oS500-600 for a double. Most (though not all) tourist offices also have a stock of private rooms, although in well-travelled rural areas where the locals depend a great deal on tourism, roadside signs offering Zimmer Frei are fairly ubiquitous anyway. Town-centre Kaffeehauser or cafes tend to be the most expensive places to eat, while food served in bars can be great value. Expect to pay oS700-800 for a double with bathroom, slightly less for rooms without private facilities. Drinking, while never cheap, is affordable, and the country's bars and cafes are among its real joys. Hotels, pensions and private rooms A high standard of cleanliness and comfort can usually be taken for granted in Austrian hotels, although in resorts and larger towns prices can be high. Desserts (Mehlspeisen) include a wide range of sweets and pastries: various types of Torte (including the famous rich chocolate Sachertorte); strudel, cheesecake; and Palatschinken (or pancake, with various nut or jam fillings) are all common. Food and drink Foodstuffs in Austria are expensive, which makes eating out marginally cheaper than self-catering. Prices hover around the oS400-600 mark for double rooms. Most tourist offices book accommodation with little fuss, usually for a fee (around oS35) and deposit.

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