The ground beneath the adolescent's feet rumbled as the massive surf crashed violently onto the rocks beneath him. He was gripping tightly onto the surfboard under his arm, his dark green eyes scanning the rows of whitewater that stood before him like lines of soldiers, impenetrable. Clouds of sea spray whipped at his face sticking long black hair to the sides of his face. He took one last look at the murky green torrent, before throwing himself over the edge of the mighty white cliff, the only obstacle that lay between him and his destiny. For what felt like an eternity the boy fell. Mighty black locks streamed from his head. Splash! Surrounded by the water he now felt safe and secure like a child being embraced by its mother. The mission that lay before him now became evident. Scrambling to his board the determined youngster began his paddle.
             To him this was the day that he had been waiting his whole life for the day when he would see what he was really made of and prove to his friends once and for all that he was the best at his beloved sport. But it was more than a sport to him, it was his passion. He lived for the ocean. And today more than any other he felt glad to be alive and privileged to witness this one in a lifetime event.
             For hours on end he battled with the great tyrant, mother earth pounding him with set after set of relentless attacks. Still the boy refused to give up. His lungs and nostrils burned like nothing he had ever felt before. Arms feeling like they had lead weights attached to them. He began to believe his efforts were futile. Maybe these massive waves were supposed to remain unconquered. Just as all seemed lost, she relented. The booming thunder that filled the bay before abruptly became a dull hiss. The surfer knew that this was going to be his only chance. It was like finding a fifth gear in a four-speed transmission. With fists thrashing at the surface of the water spattering driblets into his...