Evolution of surfing
The Evolution of Surfing to what it is Today. Primitive man used surfing in the fifth century AD to facilitate his fishing capabilities and to enhance his religious experiences: now with more time at their disposal, he uses it for different purposes: challenge and recreation, consequently, as society changed, surfing evolved. Early societies that centered on survival used surfing as a means of spiritual and physical survival. Societies that no longer, as a whole, concerned themselves with survival but have more time for recreation modified surfing to encourage it as a pleasure sport. As the society became more affluent, surrounded by more conveniences and technologies, people needed more challenges as a result, surfing evolved once again and this time from recreation to a profession or occupation.Early societies that centered on survival used surfing as a means of spiritual and physical survival. In Hawaii, local fisherman first used surfing, but these fisherman rode waves in outrigger canoes. It was necessary for fisherman to ride the waves to shore, because some times reg
Soon the prize money in contests was enough for a professional surfer to live off of. Surfing was growing fast, and eventually people would surf virtually every where waves broke. In 1907, Hawaiian surfer George Freeth first introduced surfing to the mainland of the United States, in California (The Endless Summer, Quot'd in Brown, ed. As the society became more affluent, surrounded by more conveniences and technologies people needed more challenges; as a result, surfing evolved once again and this time from recreation to profession. In Hawaii surfing also became a significant part in the Kapu religion. By 1975 professional surfers were in the spotlight. ions of the island shore in Hawaii were unreachable due to coral reef, and the only way through these reefs was through the break water where waves broke. What will come next? Past and present, surfing adapts to human needs and wants. Surfing in Hawaii was also a part of a social class system: "Some beaches were reserved for the ruling class: the commoners surfed different beaches and on a shorter board" (The History of Surfing, Quot'd in Young, ed. Surfing is now not only a sport, but also business (Quot'd in Brown, ed.
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Acceptance Essays
