Evolution of surfing

             The Evolution of Surfing to what it is Today.
             Primitive man used surfing in the fifth century AD to facilitate his fishing capabilities and to enhance his religious experiences: now with more time at their disposal, he uses it for different purposes: challenge and recreation, consequently, as society changed, surfing evolved. Early societies that centered on survival used surfing as a means of spiritual and physical survival. Societies that no longer, as a whole, concerned themselves with survival but have more time for recreation modified surfing to encourage it as a pleasure sport. As the society became more affluent, surrounded by more conveniences and technologies, people needed more challenges as a result, surfing evolved once again and this time from recreation to a profession or occupation.
             Early societies that centered on survival used surfing as a means of spiritual and physical survival. In Hawaii, local fisherman first used surfing, but these fisherman rode waves in outrigger canoes. It was necessary for fisherman to ride the waves to shore, because some times regions of the island shore in Hawaii were unreachable due to coral reef, and the only way through these reefs was through the break water where waves broke. "The first surfers were probably "unconscious surfers": island fisherman who used waves as the fastest means of getting their canoes over the coral reefs with their catch" (Quot'd in Young, ed. 19). In Hawaii surfing also became a significant part in the Kapu religion. Unlike fisherman who rode the waves in outrigger canoes, those who surfed for religious purposes rode waves on surfboards. "In Hawaii surfboard riding became an intricate part of the local Kapu religion" (Quot'd in Young, ed. 19). Surfing in Hawaii was also a part of a social class system: "Some beaches were reserved for the ruling class: the commoners surfed different beaches and on a
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Evolution of surfing. (1969, December 31). In MegaEssays.com. Retrieved 20:02, April 25, 2024, from https://www.megaessays.com/viewpaper/44847.html