Break point
Surfing the breaking waves on Mayport Beach gives a feeling I will never forget. I was 12 years old when my family and I lived on the shore of a small town known as Mayport. Two consecutive years we dwelled in our cozy little beach house watching the gleaming ocean through our windows. Everyday I would take the path over the sandy dunes, dodging the prickly spurs and the sharp cati, onto the golden white beach. I walk toward the shoreline searching the soil for any treasures the sand may hold for me. As I look out, my eyes see nothing but the glasslike water disturbed only by waves breaking on the shore. I drop my board in the cool water and begin to paddle out into the endless ocean. As I approach the break
I feel the force of the wave behind me as I shoot up to my feet, feeling the wax grip my feet. Tilting the board forward, I emerge from the tunnel of water and end up a distance away fro the tube. ing point, I duck dive under the cool salty water so as not to be pushed back by the force of the on rushing waves. Heading up the beach I notice sand crabs scurrying into their holes for safety. I paddle beyond the breaking point and sit on my board patiently waiting for the next wave to pick me up. Closer and larger they grow until their power and force begins to push me through the water as I lay on my board paddling forward. The sun sets and the sky glows a pinkish red. While waiting I notice porpoises rolling in and out of the water, free as can be. Waves begin to roll through the water as I lay on my board paddling forward. The beach is empty as far as the eye can see and the seagulls dance in the crystal clear sky. I begin to slow down so I cut my board back to the barrel and throw it forward again, so I am again positioned in front of the pipe. After the wave finally dwindles down in the shallow water I pull my board over the lip to the back of the wave and begin paddling out to face another challenge. Hearing the voice of my mother calling for dinner, I begin my journey back thanking God for such a majestic wonderful place. As the day begins to wane I ride my last wave and start toward home.
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,
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