Break point

             Surfing the breaking waves on Mayport Beach gives a feeling I will never forget. I was 12 years old when my family and I lived on the shore of a small town known as Mayport. Two consecutive years we dwelled in our cozy little beach house watching the gleaming ocean through our windows. Everyday I would take the path over the sandy dunes, dodging the prickly spurs and the sharp cati, onto the golden white beach. I walk toward the shoreline searching the soil for any treasures the sand may hold for me. As I look out, my eyes see nothing but the glasslike water disturbed only by waves breaking on the shore. I drop my board in the cool water and begin to paddle out into the endless ocean. As I approach the breaking point, I duck dive under the cool salty water so as not to be pushed back by the force of the on rushing waves. I paddle beyond the breaking point and sit on my board patiently waiting for the next wave to pick me up. While waiting I notice porpoises rolling in and out of the water, free as can be. The warm wind brings an aroma of salt and a mist of water. Waves begin to roll through the water as I lay on my board paddling forward. Closer and larger they grow until their power and force begins to push me through the water as I lay on my board paddling forward. I feel the force of the wave behind me as I shoot up to my feet, feeling the wax grip my feet. As the waves roars behind me, I duck down low and enter the barrel. Tilting the board forward, I emerge from the tunnel of water and end up a distance away fro the tube. I begin to slow down so I cut my board back to the barrel and throw it forward again, so I am again positioned in front of the pipe. After the wave finally dwindles down in the shallow water I pull my board over the lip to the back of the wave and begin paddling out to face another challenge. As the day begins to wane I ride my last wave and start toward home. Heading up the beach I notice san
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Break point. (1969, December 31). In MegaEssays.com. Retrieved 18:35, March 28, 2024, from https://www.megaessays.com/viewpaper/57305.html