--It is not like scoring a touchdown or hitting a home run. There is no other feeling like it. There is definitely something more spiritual to it than simply another game with rules. I am a surfer.
             --Surfing is not just another game or past time
             -- I can picture that wave right now.
             --looking out in the horizon, that wall of water slowly rolling it's way toward shore.
             --Excitement fills the air with the sight of the incoming set
             --all of the guys in the lineup start paddling out to deeper water so that they don't get caught in the path of the broken wave.
             -- I paddle out with the group but stay just on the inside, I try to separate myself from the rest of the pack hopefully I will find myself alone on the wave.
             --Once in know I'm in position I start to paddle, harder, my head aims down my legs start to kick a little
             --I can feel the board start to gain momentum and head down the wave.
             --this split second between popping and paddling is the most intense part of surfing for me.
             -- I kick my legs out and pop onto my board.
             --The feeling of surfing is one that is hard to describe
             --it's like the wave is going through your body
             --it's a release from everything you have to do in real life
             --it's a release from everything bad, all your responsibilities on shore.
             --and for that second after your wave is done and you look on shore you just feel lucky. Lucky to be a surfer.
             --a sport and a past time that millions of people all over the world enjoy wherever there are waves. It's special because anybody who wants to feel the sensation of surfing can have the feeling.
             --a modern surfboard is either hand or machine shaped deck of plastic foam core. This deck of foam goes th
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