History of Surfing
Surfing is a sport in which people use a board made from polyurethane foam, wrapped in fiberglass, and sealed with resin, in order to ride waves in a standing up position. It hasn’t always been a fiberglass board that surfers have used however. They use to use a very heavy wooden board that ranged somewhere around 18 feet long. Now days, they use a board anywhere from five feet to 20 feet long, and they are much, much lighter. Surfing has been around for quite a while. Christopher Columbus sailed to the New World in 1492. Surfing had started before then in what is now known as the state of Hawaii. Now the sport has spread across the world and has even become a professional sport. The techniques of surfing are very precise. You must maintain excellent balance and must be able to maneuver very quickly while maintaining this balance. You also must know how to read how the wave breaks and how to react to each break. Before the wave, you usually sit on the board in an upward position. Once you see the wave, you begin to paddle until the exact pop-up time. This is when you feel yourself being pulled by the wave. At this time you stand up on your board, turn, and ride down the direction opposite of the breaking crest. F . . .
” This man helped spread the sport of surfing throughout America as well as many other parts of the world. ” This is now called wake boarding, in which you are pulled behind a boat on what is similar to a surfboard, and you hold a rope and ride on the wake from the boat. He was born, and grew up, in Honolulu, Hawaii, in the year of 1884. This is where he began surfing at the age of eight years old. He stayed there for about eight years. Once he became known as a professional surfer, he started touring around the country again, and really started pushing the advancement of surfing. He did this one day when he paddled in a picked up a woman by the name of Isabel Lethan, and put her on his shoulders, creating the sport of tandem surfing on the spot. A very important person in the history of surfing was a man named Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, also known as “The Duke. People would gather all over the beaches to watch this man ride a wave on a piece of wood. Among the people that he taught, one of the more noteworthy of all was none other than the Prince of Wales. He opened up surfing to Australia, where they did not even have surfboards. He also invented what is called “wake surfing. To put a little bit of surfing history into Australia, Kahanamoku taught a man by the name of Claude West to surf, and gave Claude his board when he left Australia. He introduced surfing by putting on live demonstrations.
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