For centuries the heart of an empire which played a pivotal role in the political and cultural destiny of Europe, Austria underwent several decades of change and uncertainty in the twentieth century. The interwar state, shorn of its empire and racked by economic problems and political strife, fell prey to the promise of a greater Germany. But postwar stability has seen the growth of a genuine patriotism, while the end of the Cold War has put the country, and its capital, Vienna, back at the heart of Europe.
             The ethos of Austrian society is solidly bourgeois, although the Socialist party has been the strongest influence in government over past decades; and despite endless scandals, and the deep divisions created by the Waldheim controversy, an almost Scandinavian emphasis on social policy continues to be the guiding principle of national life.
             Austria is primarily known for two contrasting attractions - the fading Imperial glories of Vienna, and the variety of its Alpine hinterland. Vienna is the gateway to much of central Europe and a good place to soak up the culture of Mitteleuropa before heading towards the Magyar and Slav lands over which the city once held sway. Less renowned provincial capitals like Graz and Linz provide a similar level of culture and vitality. The most dramatic of Austria's Alpine scenery is west of here, in and around the Tirol, whose capital, Innsbruck, provides the best base for exploration. Salzburg, however, between Innsbruck and Vienna, represents urban Austria at its most picturesque, an intoxicating Baroque city within easy striking distance of the mountains and lakes of the Salzkammergut to the east.
             Despite profiteering in tourist centres like Vienna and Salzburg, accommodation need not be expensive, and, although it can be a scramble in July and August, finding a room doesn't present too many problems. Most tourist offices book accommodation with little fuss, usually for a fee (arou
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