e action is a major cause of beach erosion. The strength of these waves is determined by the weather. "Waves are created by the wind blowing over the surface of the water, transferring the energy of motion from air to water" (Press 421). Calm weather creates smaller waves which approach the shoreline at regular intervals. Stormy weather creates large waves which move at high speeds. The power if wind creates the power the waves. If week winds prevail, small ripples form. However, if heavy winds persist, large, destructive waves are created. "The height of waves increase as the wind speed increases, the wind blows for longer times, and the distance over which the wind blows is increased" (Press 421).
The breaking of waves is an important aspect of wave action. Since waves greatly effect erosion and the
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