To load the camera you pull up on the rewind knob and the back pops open. Place film canister into the compartment on the left side, so the film runs straight out of the canister and across the shutter screen. Slid the film spool back down in place. Tuck the end of the film in a slit on the take up reel. Click the shutter until the film is stretched tightly across the shutter screen area. Close the back and check to be sure it's locked. Click the shutter and wind twice to advance to an unexposed frame. To unload the camers you need to release the film lock, and crank the film back into the canister, using the rewind knob on the left side of the camera's top. The expouser setting determines how much likght you let into the camera. On a sunny day you would have it at f16 and in the shade at 5.6. On a cloudy day you would have it at f8 and in the shade at f2.8.
             The first step is the developer for 10 min at 68 degrees. You agitate it every 30 seconds for 3 seconds. the temperture effects the time because it produces black metallic silver within exposed silver crystals. the longer the developing time it will increase a negatives contrast. Secondly it's the stobath for 10 seconds. Stopbath is diluted acetic acid. When film, with developer on it's surface, is immersed in stopbath, the acid halts the development process. Also contains a dye that turns purple when the acid is no longer active enough to be useful. Now it's the fix for 10 minutes. The purpose of the fix is to dissolve all silver crystals that have not been activated by the developer, and it hardens the emulsion. (Locks the image) Then you wash your film for at least 10 minutes. Must be thoroughly washed. If you don't wash you film chemical traces left on the film by improper washing will interfere with the quality of you prints and may damage your negatives. Finally the photo flo for 10 seconds. This covers the film with a slippery surface, so any impurities in the wat...